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3 tensions shaping Milan Men’s Fashion Week SS27
Milan Men’s Fashion Week rarely revolves around a single trend. While other fashion capitals often produce one dominant silhouette or aesthetic that comes to define the season, Milan tends to reveal something less immediate but ultimately more revealing. Spring/Summer 2027 was no exception. Across the week’s runways and presentations, designers responded to a menswear landscape…
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Against uniformity: Thom Browne in Milan
Among the many interpretations of contemporary tailoring presented at Milan Fashion Week Men’s, Thom Browne once again occupied a category of his own. While much of the season leaned towards softer silhouettes, understated luxury and commercially driven refinement, Browne approached menswear through a language that has become uniquely his, one where tailoring serves as the…
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Setchu and the architecture of adaptability
Among the more demonstrative collections of Milan Fashion Week Men’s, Setchu stood apart through restraint. Rather than relying on spectacle or recognisable branding, Satoshi Kuwata continued to build his label around the intelligence of construction, presenting clothes whose complexity revealed itself gradually rather than at first glance. That approach has defined Setchu since the brand’s…
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Jil Sander Fall/Winter 2026: The quiet evolution of minimalism
Few houses are as closely associated with minimalism as Jil Sander. Since its founding, the house has built its identity around precision, proportion and an uncompromising attention to material, proving that simplicity can possess as much complexity as ornament. Fall/Winter 2026 opened a new chapter with Simone Bellotti’s first collection as creative director. His debut…
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FENDI Fall/Winter 2026: Under control
Maria Grazia Chiuri’s first ready to wear collection for Fendi arrived with none of the dramatic gestures that often accompany a creative debut. Presented yesterday during Milan Fashion Week, Fall/Winter 2026 chose continuity over disruption, introducing a quieter evolution of the house rather than a declaration of change. It was a measured decision at a…