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3 tensions shaping Milan Men’s Fashion Week SS27
Milan Men’s Fashion Week rarely revolves around a single trend. While other fashion capitals often produce one dominant silhouette or aesthetic that comes to define the season, Milan tends to reveal something less immediate but ultimately more revealing. Spring/Summer 2027 was no exception. Across the week’s runways and presentations, designers responded to a menswear landscape…
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Against uniformity: Thom Browne in Milan
Among the many interpretations of contemporary tailoring presented at Milan Fashion Week Men’s, Thom Browne once again occupied a category of his own. While much of the season leaned towards softer silhouettes, understated luxury and commercially driven refinement, Browne approached menswear through a language that has become uniquely his, one where tailoring serves as the…
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Setchu and the architecture of adaptability
Among the more demonstrative collections of Milan Fashion Week Men’s, Setchu stood apart through restraint. Rather than relying on spectacle or recognisable branding, Satoshi Kuwata continued to build his label around the intelligence of construction, presenting clothes whose complexity revealed itself gradually rather than at first glance. That approach has defined Setchu since the brand’s…
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Gucci Fall/Winter 2026: Between two chapters
Few collections in Milan carried as much expectation as Gucci, yet the anticipation surrounding the show was unlike that of a typical creative debut. Editors, buyers and industry observers were not waiting for a radical new vision or a defining statement. They had come to witness something far less common, a house suspended between two…
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Marni Fall/Winter 2026: Sharper eccentricity
Few houses approach fashion quite like Marni. Throughout its history, the Milan label has resisted the polished precision often associated with Italian luxury, favouring instinct over perfection and emotion over symmetry. Colour, texture and proportion have long carried as much weight as silhouette, giving each collection a sense of spontaneity that has become central to…
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Prada Fall/Winter 2026: Layering intelligence
Getting dressed has always fascinated Prada. Rather than treating clothing as a finished image, Miuccia Prada has spent decades observing the small decisions that shape the act itself, how garments are layered, adjusted and worn until they become part of everyday life. Fall/Winter 2026 returned to that idea, presenting a collection where layering was no…