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Quiet Displacement of Tailoring – Soshiotsuki Paris SS27
Tailoring is often associated with certainty. It imposes structure, defines proportion, and gives the body a clear architectural logic. In SOSHIOTSUKI’s Spring/Summer 2027 collection, that certainty gradually began to shift. Under the direction of Soshi Otsuki, familiar menswear codes remained visible. Long coats, sharp shirting, structured jackets, wide trousers but none of them felt entirely…
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The Aesthetics of Chaos: KIDILL Paris SS27
At Paris Fashion Week Men’s, much of menswear moved within familiar territory. Soft tailoring, controlled silhouettes, muted palettes, and quiet luxury continued to dominate the season’s visual language. Even when collections experimented, they often did so within carefully calibrated boundaries while KIDILL offered the opposite. Its Spring/Summer 2027 collection, presented under the title “CHAOTIC,” rejected…
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Pharrell’s Expanding Vision at Louis Vuitton
At Paris Fashion Week Men’s, few shows attracted as much attention as Louis Vuitton. Under the creative direction of Pharrell Williams, the house has embraced a scale of presentation that extends far beyond the traditional runway. Each season, Louis Vuitton’s menswear show functions not merely as a collection reveal, but as a global cultural event—one…
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Milan Fall/Winter 2026 — Gucci
Resetting Few shows in Milan carried as much quiet curiosity as Gucci this season. Not anticipation in the spectacular sense, but something more attentive — almost observational. People weren’t waiting for a statement. They were watching for signals. Because when a house like Gucci shifts, it rarely announces it outright. It adjusts first. This collection…
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Milan Fall/Winter 2026 — Marni
Controlled Eccentricity Marni has never quite belonged to Milan in the conventional sense. In a city often defined by precision, tailoring, and a certain idea of refinement, Marni continues to lean elsewhere, toward instinct, toward irregularity, toward something more emotional than resolved. That tension was still present this season, but it felt quieter. More deliberate.…
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Milan Fall/Winter 2026 – Prada
Layering Intelligence Some shows try to define a silhouette. To impose a clear, immediate idea of shape. Prada approached the season differently. Instead of asking what a body should look like, the collection seemed to ask how it is actually dressed. How clothes accumulate, overlap, adjust throughout the day. Not as a fixed image, but…