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Hunting past seasons
Runway seasons, creative directors, provenance and forgotten collections are becoming part of the way people shop. As access to fashion history expands, the archive is no longer reserved for museums, houses and specialists. A vintage designer label once told a shopper most of what they needed to know. Today, it may only be the beginning.…
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Alaïa, African influences
At the Fondation Azzedine Alaïa in Paris, a new exhibition traces the presence of Africa across decades of the couturier’s work, revealing an influence carried through childhood memories, materials, colour and some of his most recognisable experiments with the body. Azzedine Alaïa made his career in Paris, but part of his visual language had been…
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Fashion’s summer intermission
Between the final couture show and September’s crowded fashion calendar, the industry appears to slow down. But fashion’s summer pause has become less an absence of activity than a change in where that activity takes place. By mid-July, fashion begins to look unusually quiet. The sequence that started with resort collections and continued through Pitti…
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The creative Director era
Luxury fashion has always been built around the identity of its houses. Today, however, much of the industry’s attention has shifted towards the people leading them. A creative director is no longer responsible solely for designing collections. Increasingly, they shape the public image of a brand, influence its commercial direction and become the face of…
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The atmosphere of fashion in early 2026
Fashion felt different in the first months of 2026, though not because one silhouette or colour suddenly took control of the season. The change was harder to isolate. It appeared in the weight of fabrics, the pace of presentations and the way designers used space, sound and material to build a mood around the clothes.…