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Hunting past seasons
Runway seasons, creative directors, provenance and forgotten collections are becoming part of the way people shop. As access to fashion history expands, the archive is no longer reserved for museums, houses and specialists. A vintage designer label once told a shopper most of what they needed to know. Today, it may only be the beginning.…
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Alaïa, African influences
At the Fondation Azzedine Alaïa in Paris, a new exhibition traces the presence of Africa across decades of the couturier’s work, revealing an influence carried through childhood memories, materials, colour and some of his most recognisable experiments with the body. Azzedine Alaïa made his career in Paris, but part of his visual language had been…
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Fashion’s summer intermission
Between the final couture show and September’s crowded fashion calendar, the industry appears to slow down. But fashion’s summer pause has become less an absence of activity than a change in where that activity takes place. By mid-July, fashion begins to look unusually quiet. The sequence that started with resort collections and continued through Pitti…
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Fendi Fall/Winter 2026: Under control
Maria Grazia Chiuri’s first ready to wear collection for Fendi arrived with none of the dramatic gestures that often accompany a creative debut. Presented yesterday during Milan Fashion Week, Fall/Winter 2026 chose continuity over disruption, introducing a quieter evolution of the house rather than a declaration of change. It was a measured decision at a…
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Kevin Germanier, Les Monstrueuses
Swiss design has long been associated with clarity. Precision, functionality and technical rigour have shaped much of the country’s creative identity, leaving little room for ornament for ornament’s sake. Kevin Germanier has never accepted that distinction. Throughout his career, he has shown that excess can demand just as much precision as minimalism, and that decoration…
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London Fall/Winter 2026 – Overview
Positioned between January’s menswear collections and the major European fashion weeks that follow, London has long occupied a distinctive place within the fashion calendar. It rarely sets the dominant narrative for the season. Instead, it introduces ideas that gradually gain momentum, offering designers the freedom to explore new directions before they reach a wider audience.…