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Hunting past seasons
Runway seasons, creative directors, provenance and forgotten collections are becoming part of the way people shop. As access to fashion history expands, the archive is no longer reserved for museums, houses and specialists. A vintage designer label once told a shopper most of what they needed to know. Today, it may only be the beginning.…
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Alaïa, African influences
At the Fondation Azzedine Alaïa in Paris, a new exhibition traces the presence of Africa across decades of the couturier’s work, revealing an influence carried through childhood memories, materials, colour and some of his most recognisable experiments with the body. Azzedine Alaïa made his career in Paris, but part of his visual language had been…
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Fashion’s summer intermission
Between the final couture show and September’s crowded fashion calendar, the industry appears to slow down. But fashion’s summer pause has become less an absence of activity than a change in where that activity takes place. By mid-July, fashion begins to look unusually quiet. The sequence that started with resort collections and continued through Pitti…
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Marni Fall/Winter 2026: Sharper eccentricity
Few houses approach fashion quite like Marni. Throughout its history, the Milan label has resisted the polished precision often associated with Italian luxury, favouring instinct over perfection and emotion over symmetry. Colour, texture and proportion have long carried as much weight as silhouette, giving each collection a sense of spontaneity that has become central to…
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Prada Fall/Winter 2026: Layering intelligence
Getting dressed has always fascinated Prada. Rather than treating clothing as a finished image, Miuccia Prada has spent decades observing the small decisions that shape the act itself, how garments are layered, adjusted and worn until they become part of everyday life. Fall/Winter 2026 returned to that idea, presenting a collection where layering was no…
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Jil Sander Fall/Winter 2026: The quiet evolution of minimalism
Few houses are as closely associated with minimalism as Jil Sander. Since its founding, the house has built its identity around precision, proportion and an uncompromising attention to material, proving that simplicity can possess as much complexity as ornament. Fall/Winter 2026 opened a new chapter with Simone Bellotti’s first collection as creative director. His debut…