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Hunting past seasons
Runway seasons, creative directors, provenance and forgotten collections are becoming part of the way people shop. As access to fashion history expands, the archive is no longer reserved for museums, houses and specialists. A vintage designer label once told a shopper most of what they needed to know. Today, it may only be the beginning.…
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Alaïa, African influences
At the Fondation Azzedine Alaïa in Paris, a new exhibition traces the presence of Africa across decades of the couturier’s work, revealing an influence carried through childhood memories, materials, colour and some of his most recognisable experiments with the body. Azzedine Alaïa made his career in Paris, but part of his visual language had been…
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Fashion’s summer intermission
Between the final couture show and September’s crowded fashion calendar, the industry appears to slow down. But fashion’s summer pause has become less an absence of activity than a change in where that activity takes place. By mid-July, fashion begins to look unusually quiet. The sequence that started with resort collections and continued through Pitti…
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Burberry: Rewriting the trench
Few garments carry a legacy as closely tied to a fashion house as the trench coat does at Burberry. Designed to protect against the British weather long before it became a symbol of style, it remains the garment through which the house continues to define itself. That heritage has always been present in Burberry’s collections,…
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Simone Rocha: Softness on hold
At Simone Rocha, fragility has never meant weakness. For more than a decade, lace, tulle, ribbons and pearls have shaped a world where romance exists alongside resilience. Rather than abandoning those familiar codes, Rocha has returned to them season after season, gradually revealing new ways of thinking about femininity without ever losing the identity that…
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Erdem: Fragments of memory
Few designers have returned to memory as consistently as Erdem Moralıoğlu. For two decades, forgotten women, inherited textiles and literary heroines have shaped collections that feel as though they belong to another time without ever becoming historical recreations. His work has never been about preserving the past exactly as it was. Instead, memory becomes something…