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Quiet Displacement of Tailoring – Soshiotsuki Paris SS27
Tailoring is often associated with certainty. It imposes structure, defines proportion, and gives the body a clear architectural logic. In SOSHIOTSUKI’s Spring/Summer 2027 collection, that certainty gradually began to shift. Under the direction of Soshi Otsuki, familiar menswear codes remained visible. Long coats, sharp shirting, structured jackets, wide trousers but none of them felt entirely…
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The Aesthetics of Chaos: KIDILL Paris SS27
At Paris Fashion Week Men’s, much of menswear moved within familiar territory. Soft tailoring, controlled silhouettes, muted palettes, and quiet luxury continued to dominate the season’s visual language. Even when collections experimented, they often did so within carefully calibrated boundaries while KIDILL offered the opposite. Its Spring/Summer 2027 collection, presented under the title “CHAOTIC,” rejected…
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Pharrell’s Expanding Vision at Louis Vuitton
At Paris Fashion Week Men’s, few shows attracted as much attention as Louis Vuitton. Under the creative direction of Pharrell Williams, the house has embraced a scale of presentation that extends far beyond the traditional runway. Each season, Louis Vuitton’s menswear show functions not merely as a collection reveal, but as a global cultural event—one…
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London Fall/Winter 2026 – Overview
A Sharper Kind of Restraint From 19 to 23 February, London reasserted its particular rhythm within the fashion calendar.Less monumental than Paris, less industrial than Milan, the city continues to function differently, not as a system, but as a field. A space where ideas are tested before they are stabilised. Not louder.Not larger.But sharper. There…
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London Fall/Winter 2026 – Burberry
Rewriting the Trench At Burberry, protection was not introduced as a theme. It was already there, embedded in the foundation. This season in London did not attempt to romanticize the house’s heritage. It refined it, almost quietly. The trench returned, as expected, but without nostalgia attached to it. It felt recalibrated rather than revisited. Lengthened…
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London Fall/Winter 2026 – Simone Rocha
Softness on hold At Simone Rocha, fragility did not dissolve. This season, it felt heavier. Not visually, but in the way it stayed, how the garments held their shape, how nothing seemed to drift away completely. The collection moved through lace, tulle, and pearl detailing, familiar codes within her vocabulary, yet nothing felt decorative. Delicacy…