May.trait

May.trait

Hunting past seasons

Runway seasons, creative directors, provenance and forgotten collections are becoming part of the way people shop. As access to fashion history expands, the archive is no longer reserved for museums, houses and specialists. A vintage designer label once told a…

Alaïa, African influences

At the Fondation Azzedine Alaïa in Paris, a new exhibition traces the presence of Africa across decades of the couturier’s work, revealing an influence carried through childhood memories, materials, colour and some of his most recognisable experiments with the body.…

Sustainability, past the buzzword

Fashion talks about sustainability differently than it did five years ago. The promises have become quieter, the vocabulary more cautious and the easy solutions harder to defend. Behind that change in tone, however, the industry’s environmental reckoning is becoming more…

Copenhagen Fashion Week SS27

Twenty years after its beginnings, Copenhagen Fashion Week entered Spring/Summer 2027 with returning Danish names, a growing international presence and collections that challenged the familiar image of Scandinavian fashion. Copenhagen has spent years being described as fashion’s unofficial fifth capital.…

Paris high jewellery, July 2026

From the human hand at Boucheron to Chaumet’s sensory botany and Messika’s exceptional blue diamond, the July 2026 high jewellery collections transformed memory, matter and movement into objects that may never exist twice. A gemstone can hold light for an…

Menswear has a body problem

At the Spring/Summer 2027 menswear shows, the male body seemed to be pulled in opposite directions. Some of the season’s narrowest tailoring appeared on exceptionally lean frames, while elsewhere exposed skin and abbreviated silhouettes drew attention to bodies shaped by…

Iris van Herpen: Sculpting the Senses

Few designers have tested the limits of haute couture as persistently as Iris van Herpen. Since establishing her Amsterdam maison in 2007, she has developed a practice in which fashion moves through architecture, biology, engineering, contemporary art and science, bringing…