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Hunting past seasons
Runway seasons, creative directors, provenance and forgotten collections are becoming part of the way people shop. As access to fashion history expands, the archive is no longer reserved for museums, houses and specialists. A vintage designer label once told a shopper most of what they needed to know. Today, it may only be the beginning.…
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Alaïa, African influences
At the Fondation Azzedine Alaïa in Paris, a new exhibition traces the presence of Africa across decades of the couturier’s work, revealing an influence carried through childhood memories, materials, colour and some of his most recognisable experiments with the body. Azzedine Alaïa made his career in Paris, but part of his visual language had been…
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Fashion’s summer intermission
Between the final couture show and September’s crowded fashion calendar, the industry appears to slow down. But fashion’s summer pause has become less an absence of activity than a change in where that activity takes place. By mid-July, fashion begins to look unusually quiet. The sequence that started with resort collections and continued through Pitti…
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3 tensions shaping Milan Men’s Fashion Week SS27
Milan Men’s Fashion Week rarely revolves around a single trend. While other fashion capitals often produce one dominant silhouette or aesthetic that comes to define the season, Milan tends to reveal something less immediate but ultimately more revealing. Spring/Summer 2027 was no exception. Across the week’s runways and presentations, designers responded to a menswear landscape…
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Against uniformity: Thom Browne in Milan
Among the many interpretations of contemporary tailoring presented at Milan Fashion Week Men’s, Thom Browne once again occupied a category of his own. While much of the season leaned towards softer silhouettes, understated luxury and commercially driven refinement, Browne approached menswear through a language that has become uniquely his, one where tailoring serves as the…
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Setchu and the architecture of adaptability
Among the more demonstrative collections of Milan Fashion Week Men’s, Setchu stood apart through restraint. Rather than relying on spectacle or recognisable branding, Satoshi Kuwata continued to build his label around the intelligence of construction, presenting clothes whose complexity revealed itself gradually rather than at first glance. That approach has defined Setchu since the brand’s…