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Hunting past seasons
Runway seasons, creative directors, provenance and forgotten collections are becoming part of the way people shop. As access to fashion history expands, the archive is no longer reserved for museums, houses and specialists. A vintage designer label once told a shopper most of what they needed to know. Today, it may only be the beginning.…
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Alaïa, African influences
At the Fondation Azzedine Alaïa in Paris, a new exhibition traces the presence of Africa across decades of the couturier’s work, revealing an influence carried through childhood memories, materials, colour and some of his most recognisable experiments with the body. Azzedine Alaïa made his career in Paris, but part of his visual language had been…
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Fashion’s summer intermission
Between the final couture show and September’s crowded fashion calendar, the industry appears to slow down. But fashion’s summer pause has become less an absence of activity than a change in where that activity takes place. By mid-July, fashion begins to look unusually quiet. The sequence that started with resort collections and continued through Pitti…
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FENDI’s Roman statement
On July 9, FENDI did more than present its Fall/Winter 2026 to 2027 Haute Couture collection. The Roman house transformed Maria Grazia Chiuri’s first couture presentation into a broader cultural statement, marking the beginning of a new creative chapter while celebrating the legacy of Karl Lagerfeld, whose vision shaped FENDI for more than five decades.…
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Why Pitti Uomo 110 matters for the future of menswear
While fashion headlines tend to focus on runway collections, Pitti Uomo has built its reputation differently. Season after season, the Florentine trade fair offers a clearer picture of where menswear is heading, revealing the commercial, technical and cultural shifts that often reach the catwalk months later. Held at the Fortezza da Basso, the 110th edition…
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Quiet displacement of tailoring – Soshiotsuki Paris SS27
Tailoring has long been associated with precision. It establishes order through proportion, structure and balance, giving garments a sense of permanence that has defined menswear for generations. At SOSHIOTSUKI, however, those conventions never felt entirely secure. Under the direction of Soshi Otsuki, the Spring/Summer 2027 collection proposed a quieter evolution, one where tailoring remained intact…