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Hunting past seasons
Runway seasons, creative directors, provenance and forgotten collections are becoming part of the way people shop. As access to fashion history expands, the archive is no longer reserved for museums, houses and specialists. A vintage designer label once told a shopper most of what they needed to know. Today, it may only be the beginning.…
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Alaïa, African influences
At the Fondation Azzedine Alaïa in Paris, a new exhibition traces the presence of Africa across decades of the couturier’s work, revealing an influence carried through childhood memories, materials, colour and some of his most recognisable experiments with the body. Azzedine Alaïa made his career in Paris, but part of his visual language had been…
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Fashion’s summer intermission
Between the final couture show and September’s crowded fashion calendar, the industry appears to slow down. But fashion’s summer pause has become less an absence of activity than a change in where that activity takes place. By mid-July, fashion begins to look unusually quiet. The sequence that started with resort collections and continued through Pitti…
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Bottega Veneta Fall/Winter 2026: Language of textures
At Bottega Veneta, material has never been treated as a finishing touch. It is where every collection begins. Before a silhouette fully reveals itself, attention is drawn to the grain of a leather coat, the density of a knit or the quiet way light settles across a woven surface. For her debut collection, Louise Trotter…
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Milan Fall/Winter 2026 — Dolce & Gabbana
Black has always occupied a singular place in Dolce & Gabbana’s visual language. Across decades, it has carried the house’s Sicilian heritage, sharpened its tailoring and heightened the contrast between lace, skin and structure. More than a signature colour, it has become a way of defining the brand’s identity. For Fall/Winter 2026, that relationship was…
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Gucci Fall/Winter 2026: Between two chapters
Few collections in Milan carried as much expectation as Gucci, yet the anticipation surrounding the show was unlike that of a typical creative debut. Editors, buyers and industry observers were not waiting for a radical new vision or a defining statement. They had come to witness something far less common, a house suspended between two…