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Hunting past seasons
Runway seasons, creative directors, provenance and forgotten collections are becoming part of the way people shop. As access to fashion history expands, the archive is no longer reserved for museums, houses and specialists. A vintage designer label once told a shopper most of what they needed to know. Today, it may only be the beginning.…
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Alaïa, African influences
At the Fondation Azzedine Alaïa in Paris, a new exhibition traces the presence of Africa across decades of the couturier’s work, revealing an influence carried through childhood memories, materials, colour and some of his most recognisable experiments with the body. Azzedine Alaïa made his career in Paris, but part of his visual language had been…
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Fashion’s summer intermission
Between the final couture show and September’s crowded fashion calendar, the industry appears to slow down. But fashion’s summer pause has become less an absence of activity than a change in where that activity takes place. By mid-July, fashion begins to look unusually quiet. The sequence that started with resort collections and continued through Pitti…
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Paris Fall/Winter 2026 – Schiaparelli
Surrealism, held in place Schiaparelli has never operated comfortably within fashion’s usual logic. Elsa Schiaparelli built the house by treating clothes as a medium for contradiction, illusion and collaboration with artists, and under Daniel Roseberry, that instinct has found a contemporary language of its own. For Fall/Winter 2026-2027, however, the surreal did not need to…
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The Row Fall/Winter 2026: Discipline of silence
Few houses have built such a consistent relationship with quiet luxury as The Row. Since its founding, the brand has developed a visual language shaped by proportion, material and construction rather than overt expression, demonstrating that luxury is often defined by precision rather than excess. Presented during Paris Fashion Week, the Fall/Winter 2026 collection remained…
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5 Structural themes that shaped Milan Fall/Winter 2026
Fashion weeks are often remembered through individual moments. A striking silhouette, an unexpected casting choice or the closing look of a major house can easily dominate the conversation. Yet once the pace slows, another picture begins to emerge. The collections stop competing for attention and start speaking to one another. That was particularly true in…