-
Hunting past seasons
Runway seasons, creative directors, provenance and forgotten collections are becoming part of the way people shop. As access to fashion history expands, the archive is no longer reserved for museums, houses and specialists. A vintage designer label once told a shopper most of what they needed to know. Today, it may only be the beginning.…
-
Alaïa, African influences
At the Fondation Azzedine Alaïa in Paris, a new exhibition traces the presence of Africa across decades of the couturier’s work, revealing an influence carried through childhood memories, materials, colour and some of his most recognisable experiments with the body. Azzedine Alaïa made his career in Paris, but part of his visual language had been…
-
Fashion’s summer intermission
Between the final couture show and September’s crowded fashion calendar, the industry appears to slow down. But fashion’s summer pause has become less an absence of activity than a change in where that activity takes place. By mid-July, fashion begins to look unusually quiet. The sequence that started with resort collections and continued through Pitti…
-
Paris Fall/Winter 2026 – Miu Miu
Intelligence of instability Miu Miu has spent years examining femininity without trying to settle on a definitive version of it. Youth and maturity, vulnerability and authority, practicality and sensuality regularly occupy the same collection, not as opposites waiting to be reconciled but as different possibilities within the same wardrobe. For Fall/Winter 2026-2027, Miuccia Prada turned…
-
Paris Fall/Winter 2026 – Vivienne Westwood
At Vivienne Westwood, history has never been particularly well behaved. It is borrowed, distorted and sometimes treated with outright irreverence, which is precisely why the house’s references to the past rarely feel nostalgic. For Fall/Winter 2026–2027, Andreas Kronthaler returned to that instinct with a collection that appeared chaotic by design, allowing different periods, characters and…
-
Paris Fall/Winter 2026 – Rick Owens
Monumental but human Rick Owens has spent much of his career exploring what happens when clothing refuses to remain within the expected proportions of the body. For Fall/Winter 2026-2027, presented at the Palais de Tokyo on March 5, that familiar instinct took on a more protective character. Titled Tower, the collection built its silhouettes upward…