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Quiet displacement of tailoring – Soshiotsuki Paris SS27
Tailoring has long been associated with precision. It establishes order through proportion, structure and balance, giving garments a sense of permanence that has defined menswear for generations. At SOSHIOTSUKI, however, those conventions never felt entirely secure. Under the direction of Soshi Otsuki, the Spring/Summer 2027 collection proposed a quieter evolution,…
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The aesthetics of chaos – KIDILL Paris SS27
At Paris Fashion Week Men’s, much of the season unfolded within familiar territory. Soft tailoring, controlled proportions and muted palettes continued to shape the dominant conversation around menswear. Even collections that experimented rarely moved far from those established codes. KIDILL chose another direction entirely. Presented under the title CHAOTIC, Hiroaki…
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Pharrell’s expanding vision at Louis Vuitton
Few shows during Paris Men’s Fashion Week command attention quite like Louis Vuitton. Since Pharrell Williams took over the house’s menswear, each presentation has grown beyond the traditional runway, becoming a cultural event that reaches well beyond the fashion industry. The collections are designed not only to introduce new clothes,…
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Paris Fall/Winter 2026 – Reading the season
Paris rarely moves in one direction. Across nine days of shows and presentations, ideas overlapped, contradicted one another and occasionally arrived at remarkably similar conclusions. Fall/Winter 2026 was no exception. After the wave of creative director debuts that transformed the previous season, this edition felt less concerned with introductions and…
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Paris Fall/Winter 2026 – Miu Miu
Intelligence of instability Miu Miu has spent years examining femininity without trying to settle on a definitive version of it. Youth and maturity, vulnerability and authority, practicality and sensuality regularly occupy the same collection, not as opposites waiting to be reconciled but as different possibilities within the same wardrobe. For…
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Paris Fall/Winter 2026 – Vivienne Westwood
At Vivienne Westwood, history has never been particularly well behaved. It is borrowed, distorted and sometimes treated with outright irreverence, which is precisely why the house’s references to the past rarely feel nostalgic. For Fall/Winter 2026–2027, Andreas Kronthaler returned to that instinct with a collection that appeared chaotic by design,…
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Paris Fall/Winter 2026 – Rick Owens
Monumental but human Rick Owens has spent much of his career exploring what happens when clothing refuses to remain within the expected proportions of the body. For Fall/Winter 2026-2027, presented at the Palais de Tokyo on March 5, that familiar instinct took on a more protective character. Titled Tower, the…
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Paris Fall/Winter 2026 – Schiaparelli
Surrealism, held in place Schiaparelli has never operated comfortably within fashion’s usual logic. Elsa Schiaparelli built the house by treating clothes as a medium for contradiction, illusion and collaboration with artists, and under Daniel Roseberry, that instinct has found a contemporary language of its own. For Fall/Winter 2026-2027, however, the…
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The Row Fall/Winter 2026: Discipline of silence
Few houses have built such a consistent relationship with quiet luxury as The Row. Since its founding, the brand has developed a visual language shaped by proportion, material and construction rather than overt expression, demonstrating that luxury is often defined by precision rather than excess. Presented during Paris Fashion Week,…